Yup, this is what I was trying to do

These are definitely socks and they definitely have a woven look to them.




And they even work in sandals:

I’m basking in success at this end :-D

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Plaid Tunisian Socks

Yup it wasn’t easy, but I did it.

flat on side
flat, top and bottom

They are pretty cute on, mainly because I lose some of the stretchiness to the plaid pattern, so they need quite a precise fit.
This picture doesn’t really capture it
…but I didn’t have the patience to do a better one.

The “plaid pattern” is
1. three (3) rows of Simple, Sock, Simple, Sock, Sock, Sock, Sock, & repeat;
2. then a row of Chain-Top Simple (Extended Simple);
3. then a row of Simple;
and repeat the rows.

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Still at it…

I’ve been meaning to post these socks for a while.
I like the way they turned out :-)

I also did some other socks that I don’t like so much, so you won’t be seeing them.
But they did trigger an idea for a plaid fabric, so I did an in-the-round test swatch for this,
which eventually turned into a wrist warmer.
wrist warmer
…And I’ve documented this stitch combo in my Stitch Combo Gallery.

I have started on the plaid socks and they do look promising!
…So perhaps you will be seeing them soon.

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Tunisian Sock Stitch (how to do)

I’ve started on another pair in some lovely yarn
and it seems like a good time to share the stitch combo that I’ve been using.

This is a row of Chain-top Simple Stitch (AKA Extended Simple Stitch) alternated with two (2) rows of an original stitch that I call the Sock Stitch. The Sock Stitch rows give the fabric a bit of elastic sideways stretch and alternating the stitches gives it a bit of vertical stretch.

The latest sock, so far
I’m using “gold” Opal sock yarn for the in-the-round return pass
and multicolored Jitterbug sock yarn for everything else.

First, the Chain-top Simple Stitch (aka Extended Simple Stitch),
which is probably already familiar.
1. You start by hooking behind the front vertical bar, as for the Simple Stitch

2. Then you add a chain stitch to the top of it

This produces a stitch that is flatter and a bit taller than the Simple Stitch
It’s a lovely stitch, but it has no sideways stretch to it at all.

…So on to the Sock Stitch, which does stretch sideways,
but tends to curl dramatically.

This is not a problem in the finished sock (in fact, it creates the vertical stretch),
but it does make it harder to photograph.
So all of the Sock Stitch pictures show the Sock Stitch being created
on top of a Chain-top Simple Stitch.

1. To start the Sock Stitch, I pull back that vertical front bar
so that I can reach the vertical back bar

2. Then I pull a loop between the vertical bars, so that the back bar is forced forward
This creates a stitch that is rotated sideways

But that’s not enough to keep the stitch twisted, so that it will stretch reversibly…
On the return pass, you also need to secure it with an untwisted return chain,
as shown here:
This picture is shot from the back of the part that I’m working on,
although you can see some of the front as well, because I’m working “in-the-round”.

If all goes well, the Sock stitch will have enough sideways stretch to work as a sock fabric. Knit rib is far stretchier, but not as cool IMO.

So anyway, that’s how it’s done.
The result is
and turned inside-out

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Shoe Socks

Finally, these do fit inside shoes.
top flat side

I like to wear them with the top rolled down and the backside of the Tunisian crochet showing


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Curvature and Tunisian Crochet

I became interested in the math of curved Tunisian crochet objects while making the above cat bed. (It has a flat hollow in the center, so my elderly, always-cold cat can nestle into the center of it.)

Said cat enjoying the cat bed (and warmth from the light):

I created the curvature by crocheting seven (7) spiraling sections with increases between them
and by varying the height-to-width ratio of the stitch combo.

I used a shorter stitch combo for the central flat section
and a taller stitch combo for the part that curved to form a hollow.
(Actually, if I had put more stuffing inside, this section would have curved to form a bump.)

I also used rows of stitches with no increases to create flat sides
and 7 sections with decreases instead of increases to form a flat bottom.

The Math Part
This shows an idealized flat round that has been crocheted using six (6) sections with increases at their boundaries:

I expected that it would be easy to figure out how many sections I needed to get a flat round using simple assumptions. Hah!

I expected that Pi = 3.1416 increases per round would create a flat object for stitches that are roughly as wide as they are high (like the Simple Stitch), because the circumference-to-diameter ratio is what defines Pi.

And that I would need C increases per round to make the work flat for an arbitrary stitch combo,
where C = Pi(h/w) and h/w is the height-to-width ratio of the stitch combo.

Unfortunately, when I compared this theory with my experience and measurements taken from pictures of the cat bed…

So, it looks like you need something like C = 4.5(h/w) sections
to make the object flat,
and more sections will create a frilly object
and fewer sections will mean the object has a cupped shape.

…And I could obsess over why C appears to equal 4.5 rather than 3.1416,
but I choose not to.

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Cat Bed

I’ve been trying to keep my elderly cat warm, now that he has lost his “brother”.
So I made a cat bed that’s warm and soft.

I made a 7-part spiral for the front and had fun controlling the curvature with the height of the stitches:

I did 7-part decreases on the back to finish off the cover:
which left the front looking like this:

I made the innards from high-loft polyester batting.
I cut out a tube and some rounds with a rotary cutter and sewed the tube together with some yarn.
cutting assembled

And this was the net result:
As always, this is not nearly as glorious as I envisioned,
but the cat seems to like it.


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